After years of neglect, wooden floorboards or parquet blocks can become heavily worn, scratched or punctured by gripper rods or obscured by layers of wax and polish. Complete re-sanding and coating of timber floors is often required when they are accidently scratched by careless tradesmen and delivery men.
Finally, do you just want to change the look of your floor? We can stain your floor to one of a range of standard colours prior to oiling or varnish.
Whatever your unique requirements
Artisan Timber and Flooring will undertake your entire floor restoration project using the following procedures
Survey & Estimate Preparation.
The first step is to calculate the length of time and materials needed. Please email or phone us with measurements of the rooms to be restored so that we can give you a provisional estimate. If you are happy with our initial quote we will come out and survey your floor to see if extra materials and work are required. For instance Items such as missing or loose blocks and cork strip will increase the price and some floors may be deemed irreparable. Following a detailed survey we will confirm a final price to you.
Getting ready for Sanding.
All furniture and fabrics should be removed from the rooms being restored. Although our machines generate very minimal dust, cupboards and doors should be taped up and existing floor coverings need to be uplifted then removed. After this we punch down any raised nails and fixings then fix down or replace any loose or broken planks, blocks or cork strip. We are now ready to begin the floor sanding operation using our top of the range Lagler belt sander for large areas and an edge sander in borders and corners. We start using a coarse grit to remove the worst marks from the floor then gradually work our way down through medium and fine grit sanding belts. During the sanding stage, sanding dust is mixed with a resin filler to fill any cracks and holes in the floor resulting in a high quality smooth finish in the newly sanded floor. Once the sanding stage has been completed, the floor is swept, vacuumed and dry-mopped prior to the application of any stains selected by the client.
Finishes and Seals.
After the wooden floor has been sanded, it needs to be protected with a wood floor seal. The two most popular types of finish are lacquers and hardwax oils. Some people might call lacquer floor varnish, but in professional terms, varnish is only one type of wood floor seal. The quality of the seal that goes onto your floor is perhaps the most important part of the entire sanding process and commercial seals will be far more durable than those used in the domestic environment. Artisan Timber & Flooring only use top quality lacquers to protect the finished wood, offering a stain resistant durable finish that should, with the correct maintenance, last years. Hardwax oils provide a more traditional floor finish that retain the natural character of the wood whilst increasing its’ durability as well as water and dirt resistance. Floor oils are available in matt, satin-matt or semi-matt finishes, with the main advantage being that the floors coated can be patch repaired when damaged as opposed to lacquered floors that need entirely re-sanding and finishing. Generally two coats are applied and a range of coloured oils are available of which the lime effect is the most popular.
How long will my seal last?
As long as you take good care of the floor and under normal domestic traffic conditions typical re-coating times:
A partacrylic seal should last 3+ years.
- A high traffic seal should last 5+ years.
- An oil will need touching up once every year, if not sooner.
These timings are approximate and depend on the volume of traffic and the type of shoes that go over the floor. If you really want your floors to last you might consider making the house a shoe-free zone!
Hint: re-coat your floor before the seal has worn through and you will avoid costly re-sanding.
Please feel free to look through some ofour projects that we have worked on by clicking the thumbnails listed below.
Here at Artisan we take great pride in our reputation so we fully guarantee our workmanship for a year. Our fitters are all highly skilled craftsmen trained to reject any faulty boards from the outset of any installation and we only work with reputable suppliers many of whom offer product guarantees and quality control their products.
You can be sure of peace of mind when you select Artisan Timber and Flooring for your wood floor installation , and we have hundreds of happy customers.Click on our project gallery above for samples of our workmanship or study some of our testimonials.
Methods of Wood Floor Installation
In this type of wood floor installation the new floor is fitted over an underlay without being fixed to the subfloor. Popular with engineered wood flooring and laminate floorings, the floors planks are glued together with PVA adhesive or click together directly . This fitting method allows installation of specific types of underlay and Damp Proof Membranes for sound insulation and damp insulation.
Fully Bonding to Subfloor
Here the wooden floor is stuck directly onto concrete, chipboard or plywood Special adhesives with immense bonding strength remain flexible indefinitely allowing the wood to expand and contract seasonally without damaging the structure of the timber . For parquet block and mosaic floors rigid adhesives are used to fully bond the floor to prevent excessive movement of the individual blocks.
Liquid Batten System
This is a partial bond system where semi-rigid triangular beads of glue are spaced 300mm apart at 90 degrees to the floor. It is used mainly to compensate minor subfloor unevenness and is an elastic, sound-dampening adhesive which reduces vibrations.. A similar system is used in conjunction with an acoustic mat to reduce noise transmission.
The commonest method of nailing floors down is by using a special floor nailer(
This type of installation is typical for Junckers solid hardwood floors . It uses a metal clip system to join the boards to each other as a floated floor reducing labour costs and seasonal movement.
You can never underestimate the importance of subfloor preparation as part of the installation process so we offer the following services:-
- Levelling floors by application of levelling compounds
- Fitting plywood to uneven / loose floorboards
- Application of liquid DPM’s where floor moisture levels exceed 3%
- Fitting of polythene or building paper as moisture barrier
- Fitting of timber battens where required
Other Services Include:-
- Supply and fit of a variety of skirting boards
- Move furniture where space is tight
- Uplift and disposal of existing floor coverings
- Creation of sunken
- Trimming of doors where necessary
- Minor repairs of damaged boards
- Protection of newly-laid flooring
- Cladding of stairs to match the flooring
CONTACT US NOW FOR A FREE SURVEY AND DETAILED QUOTATION!
General Advice for Self-Builders: Fitting & Finishing
About our Solid Timber Flooring.
All our timbers have been kiln dried to have
Our new timber flooring has been accurately machined to T & G and in many cases; ends matched which allows for easier fitting and minimum wastage.
Site Conditions are extremely important and can make all the difference to a timber floor. The overall fabric (walls, floors, timber etc.) of the building should be thoroughly dried out so that there are no visible signs of moisture or condensation. All wet work (concrete, plastering etc.) must be completed and dry before you think of having the flooring delivered.
- All under floor concrete slabs should be dried to 2-4% moisture content (BS8201) and this may take at least 1 month per 25mm thickness of slab. Concrete sub floors must be clean, dry and flat (use a self-levelling compound to correct any errors, again ensuring that it is completely dry).
- Existing flooring, plywood, flooring grade chipboard or MDF sub floors should be in good structural condition, level and free from rot and fungus. New timber joists, battens and supporting timber should be kiln dried to 15% and under.
- Ambient conditions should be within the ranges of Temperature of 15°c to 27° (BS8201) and relative Humidity of 35% -65% (BS8201).
- Timber should be acclimatized in the room where it is to be laid at the conditions expected for at least a week if not longer.
- Expansion gaps should be left around the perimeter of the floor and occasionally at intervals across the width of the floor of between 10mm and 20mm depending on the size of the room, i.e. 10-12mm for spans up to 8m and 15-20mm for spans in excess of 8m.
The effects of Heating and Climate on Stability.
- As mentioned before the timber needs to acclimatize.
- Expansion gaps are left around the perimeter of the floor and occasionally at intervals across the width of the floor depending on the size of the room.
- Seasonal variations and levels of heating may cause the timber to expand and contract. Small gaps may appear during winter when the heating is turned up, but these will close up again during the summer months.
Under Floor Heating and Solid Hardwood Flooring.
There are no hard and fast rules about the suitability of under floor heating system and timber flooring, it will depend on many factors, i.e. U value, room geometry, air circulation etc, plus the design of a suitable heating system. Speak to your heating supplier and ask for information on the suggested moisture content of the timber before it is laid. It may be worth thinking about laying a multi-layered floor, which has been cross-engineered for dimensional stability, ideal for going over Under Floor Heating. It is advised that these boards are adhered to the sub floor rather than floated.
Please remember that timber is an insulator, you will not get the same heat emissions from your underfloor heating system as you would if ceramic, slate or stone tiles were used.
We would also suggest that multi-layered boards be used in conservatories where temperatures can be excessive at certain times of the year.
Solid Wood laying guidelines:
For boards of up to and including 160mm widths
For Boards wider than 160mm.
The wider the board, the heavier the board. Just using the secret nailing method is not enough for boards wider than 160mm. These boards need to be face fixed, either by plugging and screwing, screwing and filling or using decorative nails.N.B
Heavy scratching will break seal of the lacquer causing damage to the timber by the ingress of dirt and moisture from cleaning.